HKS EVC 6 Installation

[JaredPink]

*****WARNING*****
This modification requires you to modify the vehicle's engine wiring harness and requires tapping into engine signal wires. Any mis-installation can cause extreme harm to the vehicles electrical system.
You also are modifying the boost control system, which could result in an over boost, damaging engine or the turbos.
This is a basic outline for vehicle specific installation tips. If you are not familiar with the installation of a boost controller, or operation of one, you should NOT attempt this installation, as you could easily cause $20,000+ in damage.

With the engine covers removed, you will notice near the master cylinder there are several holes already existing in the bulk head. You can use these to bolt the actuator. There is also a plastic piece that covers a hole which you can pass the vacuum lines through.

Bolt the actuator using a 10mm bolt and nut, you will need to remove one of the covers that covers the hole used in this picture.


To plumb the actuator, you will remove the boost reference hose from the nipple on the drivers turbo, this is your inlet to your actuator. This line normally goes to the factory boost control solenoid. The output of the solenoid goes to the factory metal T, replacing the output of the factory solenoid. I strongly advise heat wrapping the vacuum hoses to help protect them from heat. Pass them through this hole after cutting a hole in the center of the plastic cap.

Run your boost reference to the nipple just behind the drivers side throttle body.

Plumb the actuator solenoid as described in the HKS manual for input/output. It should look like this now.(Only with engine covers off)

Plug in the control harness that runs inside to the head unit to the solenoid. You will route this under the cowl, along the factory harness where possible. Zip tie as much as possible to prevent looseness and flapping. To enter the vehicle, make a small cut into the factory rubber boot, careful not to damage the wires. Pass this through into the cabin. Once you have fed it through, use a high quality silicone sealer to reseal the hole to prevent any leaks/noises.

You can reassemble the engine pay at this point, and reassemble the engine under covers. Then wash your hands as you are now moving to the interior!

Open the glove box, pulling up gently, this will remove the hinges and let you pull it away, once you do you will need to disconnect the tension cable.


Remove the side dash cover.


Remove the rear glove box cover by removing the screws, and then the ecu under cover (this is the very bottom piece, just push directly down at the front part and it will come free.) Once the rear glove box panel is out, unplug everything.



Unbolt and unplug the ecu, pulling the harness free. This is about what it should look like.


Here is the wiring you need to do:
solder the EVC's power wire to connector M107 on pin 121 (Pink wire), the EVC's Tachometer/RPM signal wire to connector M107 on pin 113 (Sky Blue wire), and the EVC's Throttle Position sensor wire to connector F101 on pin 40 (Blue wire.) You can wire up the vehicle speed sensor wire if you choose to do so, but it's typically not needed on the GT-R since you can run full boost at low speeds thanks to the great traction provided by the all-wheel drive system.
You will need to open the connectors to perform these solders, and there are two tabs to unlock that allow you to slide the back of the connectors off. Be very careful as you attempt this. You will also need to cut the zip tie that holds the wires to this cover, which you can reinstall later. Please note that if you do not want to tap into the stock wiring harness, we have been helping develop an upcoming wiring patch harness that is simply a short extension of the stock wiring harness that you can remove at any time to return the wiring to 100% stock! Here is the item, which should start shipping (hopefully) sometime in July:
https://www.speedforsale.com/nissang...72uvmvpqhgocu0




Once you have the soldering done, you can reassemble the ECU area, and then mount the display unit where desired. We typically mount the display between the 'Powered by BOSE' emblem and the CD player insertion slot. To be able to route the wires you need to remove the radio panels. This is done by pulling straight outwards.


With these out you should be able to feed the wires needed to the head unit without cutting ANY holes or making any notches! You should then mount the EVC display unit using high quality 3M double sided tape, so that you can remove it in the future.

In the image below, you will see the EVC head unit sitting perfectly between the BOSE emblem, CD player, and passenger airbag on/off logo:


Reassemble the interior, and connect the battery. Follow the EVC set up instructions in the manual.

Also, if you plan to use a EZ writer, make sure to run the serial interface where it can be accessed with relative ease.

[JeremyBlackwell]

Hey guys, for anyone who has already read this article, I just added a bit more information and touched up a few things in the article for clarity. I also added a picture of the final mounting location of the EVC6 display unit.

[HandXu]

What is EVC6?

[JaredPink]

Originally Posted by HandXu

What is EVC6?

The EVC6 is a boost controller, which allows fine tune boost control settings for different RPM, which can help combat boost trailing off at higher RPMS.

[HandXu]

Originally Posted by JaredPink

The EVC6 is a boost controller, which allows fine tune boost control settings for different RPM, which can help combat boost trailing off at higher RPMS.

Thank You!!~

[HandXu]

and i want to know how much?

[ATLsupra]

Here is EVC6.
https://www.speedforsale.com/nissang...tgqksb8e08ni56

[HandXu]

Originally Posted by ATLsupra

Here is EVC6.
https://www.speedforsale.com/nissang...tgqksb8e08ni56

Thank you very much!

[CCTPREZ]

WELL!!! Mine HKS EVC6 came with all directions in Japaneze. The instructions point to specific pin numbers on the ecu wiring harness, however there aren't any numbers on the harness that come close to what is specified in the above instructions. Does anyone have the R35 Pinout diagram for the ECU? I have searched Everywhere, and nowhave about 12 hours wrapped up in a 2 hour installation.

Any help would be FANTASTIC...Jeremy???

[JeremyBlackwell]

Well, I'm having nothing but problems with Nissan's online repair manual via Internet Explorer (which is common,) so I'll try to get something posted as soon as I can. You can note two of the wire colors in pictures, which only leaves one more to go.

Also, for anyone else reading this installation article, having the online repair manual is a good idea if you plan on doing installations yourself, just as with any car model. This will help avoid these hassles in the future.

[CCTPREZ]

You actually cannot "note two of the wire colors in the pictures", as there are pinks, and blues in the other connectors as well, and if you don't have a diagram telling you which connector is M107 (for example) you don't know which pink wire to splice. I did get the pinout diagram, and it is posted on the NAGTROC site now. I tried to upload it here, but due to the size, was unable to get it uploaded.

As far as the 3rd wire listed as the vehicle speed sensor, the connector, color or pin number were not listed in the directions, so we didn't hook it up. The pinout diagram does not list it as a vehicle speed sensor or VSS as one would assume, so per the instructions stating it was ok to leave off, we left it alone.

Thank Jeremy, not trying to step on toes at all, just stating from my expeience.

[JeremyBlackwell]

Hey Jason, please email me the diagram and I'll post it up via FTP and link to it. We are still having issues with Nissan's online repair manual working, which we are trying to sort as we speak. I have printed copies, but they have notes written on them so I don't want to use them (to avoid confusion.) Thanks.

[CCTPREZ]

Here is the pinout diagram for those who need it.

[ms2knights]

I have already installed the EVC 6. However, I am now looking to tune or set up the EVC. I have it set to work with the RPM and Throttle function. However, I know there are settings that need to be input for these. I would like to know how to use the EVC to get the most out of it. Although I have the EVC set at 17 PSI, it will boost up to 21PSI. I have decreased the gain, but still find it hard to get it to max boost at 17. Anyway, I would appreciate if someone can give some insight, on how to set it up. Thanks

[petichi]

Thanks so much 4 sharing with us,bros

[valtersboze]

i`m not sure, but i think the EV6 is designed wrong, at least its hard to configure properly.
it hasnt the GAIN option the previous controllers had, but it has an OFFSET option in % (0-200). the problem is that whatever target boost you set, the software still applies an "easeOut" function so that it allows some air bypass to the wastegate way before the target boost. Of course if the EVC opened up only when target boost was reached, the boost would overshoot in for half a second or smth. but then why would we need an EBC ?
i did a test with various options and found out a great use of the WARNING function. when boost goes over a set limit, the warning sets back target boost to stock level or to desired. my car runs 10psi stock, so i set warning to 9 or 10 psi.
setting A = target boost 20psi, offset 100%.
setting B = target boost 10psi, offset 200%
warning = 10psi
results:
A: slow spool-up, so slow as default settings, no use of the EVC.
B: immediate spoolup, like the passage to wastegate was blocked! at 10psi the warning sets in and opens the solenoid. while the turbine slows down, the boost actually climbs to 12.5-14 psi then drops back to 10psi or less. then it fluctates around 10-11psi with the warning going on and off.

while setting B is not smooth and stable and you can feel the power fluctating, its still much better than setting A. the boost is immediate. the fluctation of power can be smoothed out a bit by adjusting the OFFSET according to RPM points.
of course you risk overshooting the boost and maybe damaging some engine parts under detonation, but the kick-in spool up is totally worth it!
of course my disclaimer says: use at your own risk
I`m not sure which is better - MBC or EVC, but as I involved about 6 hours installing the hardware, I`m keeping it
here`s link to my HKS EVC VI installation

[Norman]

oh, my right hand drive JDM model can't install boost control solenoid in that first pics position...cause our battery,fuse box...is there. we have installed outside the "compartment".

[JaredPink]

Originally Posted by Norman

oh, my right hand drive JDM model can't install boost control solenoid in that first pics position...cause our battery,fuse box...is there. we have installed outside the "compartment".

Actually if you make a bracket you can install it near the relay box. I still need to post the pictures from my Trinidad trip and I can show you where I installed it on a Right hand drive GTR.

[Norman]

oh! thanks!that's much better in a heat resistant compartment.
waiting for your news. ^^

[*InK0_D1]

Hi!

I write to you from Russia, I use the translator.

I establish EVC 6 of complete set HKS GT570 on R35, there were problems. I can not understand where to connect "Scramble Harness" a blue wire and a white wire?... To connect as well as "Throttle input Signal (Blue)" and "Speed / RMP Input Signal (White)"?

There were still difficulties with the manual resulted by you on installation. Where are connectors M107 and F101? How to define where is in it necessary pin (121, 113, 40....)? Can load the electroscheme?

[*InK0_D1]

Where to connect wires "Scramble Harness"???? Help please!

[JeremyBlackwell]

For the scramble boost, if you really want to install it, you'll just need to hook up the 2 wires to a momentary switch that closes the circuit.

Regarding the connectors, the M107 is the smallest of the 3 connectors. The F101 has each of the following wires on each corner of the harness: Yellow, Light Green, Red, and Green. I'll try to post up a pin out of the ECU harnesses in a bit on our installation manual.

[*InK0_D1]

Many thanks! You very much have helped me!

Today has finished installation! It is necessary to adjust!

Do not prompt how many at you there is installation HKS EVC6? =)

[Norman]

"even" in Malaysia that's more than 15 R35 with EVC, That's total 60 R35 here only.... guess that's x9+ at USA.

[*InK0_D1]

There is a question!

The car on high (RMP) turns twitches, as if there is no fuel or combustion misses.

The owner himself loaded the program through "Cobb AccessPORT" Stage 2, 97 Petrol....

Speaks that it is guilty in the "boost-controller", whether and is more exact in "Unit" which removes restriction (boost-cut) there can be it so?

P.S. left-hand drive and right-hand drive, conducting ECU can will cause a stir. "pins"?

That is "unit"



Connected, under such scheme

Red wire (power) on pin 121(pink) M107
Black wire (ground) on pin 124(black) M107
Brown wire (output line2) on pin 79(blue) F102
Orange wire (output line1) on pin 80(blue) F102
Light-blue wire (input line2) on wire pin 79
Blue wire (input line1) on wire pin 80

Correctly?

The car from America, a wheel drive at the left...