JaredPink
06-16-2009, 05:06 PM
Begin by removing the down pipes, which you can see here:http://nissangtrclub.com/showthread.php?t=2441
Once the down pipes are removed, remove the head shields over the rear of the turbos.
Remove the c-clips holding the actuator shaft to the flapper valve. Do NOT loose the c-clip as it will need to be reused. Long needle nose pliers work well for this task.
You can now remove the passenger side actuator bolts, and move the actuator down and out, disconnecting the vacuum reference hose.
Take the new passenger side actuator, and move it into position, attaching the vacuum hose. I found it easier to position and reattach the C-clip before I rebolted the actuator in place.
On the drivers side, from the top side of the vehicle you will need to remove the following: Intercooler pipe with BOV, Air intake box, the main ground strap to the timing case. From underneath, you will need to remove the first charge pipe from the turbo. You will need to unbolt the aluminum pipe and remove it along with the rubber one.
http://www.speedforsale.com/staff/files/watermarked/DSC05703.JPG
http://www.speedforsale.com/staff/files/watermarked/DSC05704.JPG
From the top side of the vehicle, remove the two bolts holding the turbo inlet pipe. This is a very tight area and requires a good bit of patience.
http://www.speedforsale.com/staff/files/watermarked/DSC05723.JPG
Once this pipe is unbolted and removed, remove the two bolts holding on the turbo actuator.
Remove actuator and install aftermarket actuator. When you go to install the torx bolts back into the actuator, I found that very gently taping them to the socket will help greatly!
http://www.speedforsale.com/staff/files/watermarked/DSC05724.JPG
The stock boost control is done by a VSV (vacuum switching valve) on the drivers side, with both actuators using the same line. Disconnect the metal T from the solenoid side and connect your Mighty-vac (or comparable pressure pump.) This will allow you to pressurize the actuators at the same time. You want to ensure both turbo actuators crack and reach full open at the same time/pressures. You will need to adjust as necessary to ensure they are opening at the same time. This is done by loosing the lock nut on the actuator shaft and turning it either tighter, or looser, as needed. Typically, a GT-R running pump gasoline (91-93 octane) will want to set the crack pressure as low as it will go, which is typically about 11-14psi on most actuators. If you are going for very high boost, you will want to tighten down the actuator arms so that the wastegates crack at a higher pressure. If you do not set up an even crack and peak open pressure between both wastegates, get ready for boost control issues and a lot of tuning hassle.
Once you confirm proper adjustment, begin reassembly. Install the vaccum lines back in place, turbo inlet pipe (using tape on bolts to hold to socket), Turbo charge pipe, air boxes, grounding strap, upper intercooler pipe, Turbo heat shields from underneath, then the down pipes.
Once the down pipes are removed, remove the head shields over the rear of the turbos.
Remove the c-clips holding the actuator shaft to the flapper valve. Do NOT loose the c-clip as it will need to be reused. Long needle nose pliers work well for this task.
You can now remove the passenger side actuator bolts, and move the actuator down and out, disconnecting the vacuum reference hose.
Take the new passenger side actuator, and move it into position, attaching the vacuum hose. I found it easier to position and reattach the C-clip before I rebolted the actuator in place.
On the drivers side, from the top side of the vehicle you will need to remove the following: Intercooler pipe with BOV, Air intake box, the main ground strap to the timing case. From underneath, you will need to remove the first charge pipe from the turbo. You will need to unbolt the aluminum pipe and remove it along with the rubber one.
http://www.speedforsale.com/staff/files/watermarked/DSC05703.JPG
http://www.speedforsale.com/staff/files/watermarked/DSC05704.JPG
From the top side of the vehicle, remove the two bolts holding the turbo inlet pipe. This is a very tight area and requires a good bit of patience.
http://www.speedforsale.com/staff/files/watermarked/DSC05723.JPG
Once this pipe is unbolted and removed, remove the two bolts holding on the turbo actuator.
Remove actuator and install aftermarket actuator. When you go to install the torx bolts back into the actuator, I found that very gently taping them to the socket will help greatly!
http://www.speedforsale.com/staff/files/watermarked/DSC05724.JPG
The stock boost control is done by a VSV (vacuum switching valve) on the drivers side, with both actuators using the same line. Disconnect the metal T from the solenoid side and connect your Mighty-vac (or comparable pressure pump.) This will allow you to pressurize the actuators at the same time. You want to ensure both turbo actuators crack and reach full open at the same time/pressures. You will need to adjust as necessary to ensure they are opening at the same time. This is done by loosing the lock nut on the actuator shaft and turning it either tighter, or looser, as needed. Typically, a GT-R running pump gasoline (91-93 octane) will want to set the crack pressure as low as it will go, which is typically about 11-14psi on most actuators. If you are going for very high boost, you will want to tighten down the actuator arms so that the wastegates crack at a higher pressure. If you do not set up an even crack and peak open pressure between both wastegates, get ready for boost control issues and a lot of tuning hassle.
Once you confirm proper adjustment, begin reassembly. Install the vaccum lines back in place, turbo inlet pipe (using tape on bolts to hold to socket), Turbo charge pipe, air boxes, grounding strap, upper intercooler pipe, Turbo heat shields from underneath, then the down pipes.