AMS Lightweight Crankshaft Pulley installation

[JeremyBlackwell]

This article was written by Vuk at AMS.

Just thought we'd share some install shots and specs on our industry first pulley for the R35.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6662-Copy.jpg

Some of the specs:

• Power and torque gains throughout the power-band!
• Stock-sized main crank pulley (no under-drive related issues)
• CAD-Designed, billet aircraft aluminum construction (T6061)
• Metal sleeve on main crank pulley for a positive seal
• Weighs in at 2.35 lbs. versus 6.17 lbs. factory pulley!
• Fully balanced, super light, and super strong!
• Aircraft grade aluminum construction utilizing strict ISO 9001 manufacturing standards
• AMS laser-etched logo and anodized black for longevity/durability and a stealth stock look
• AMS pulleys have been used for years on highly built VG and VQ powerplants!

Applications:

R35 2009+


Side by Side shots of AMS Pulley vs OEM:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6932.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6946.jpg

Picture of metal sleeve for a positive seal between the pulley and front oil seal:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6661-Copy.jpg


Install is straight forward and should take around 2-3 hours using simple tools:

10mm socket, ratchet, extensions
flat head or equivalent for removal of plastic clips
19 mm deep socket (preferably impact) and breaker bar/pipe
jam bar (for main drive shaft)
torque wrench

Picture of the GTR prepping for light surgery at AMS:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6950.jpg

After proper positioning on our scissor lift we position the rubber blocks under the OEM mounting points:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6943.jpg


Shot of the undertray that needs to be removed to access the lower engine bay. The arrows depict some of the 10mm bolts and clip locations that need to be removed for the front lower lip/bumper to be removed. The front bolts are hidden by rubber plugs that have been removed in this pic:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6909-1.jpg

Two 10 mm bolts (one on either side) are hidden towards the front wheel splash shield. Removing the plastic clips will allow access to these with an extension:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6912.jpg

Front lower lip/bumper carefully being removed:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6942.jpg

Front lip/bumper removed:http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6913.jpg

With the front lip/bumper removed you now have access to the remaining 4 x 10 mm bolts in order to remove the second undertray:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6914-1.jpg

Second tray removed - don't mind the salt :eek:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6917.jpg

OEM Pulley waiting for extraction:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6920.jpg

In order to remove the serpentine belt you will need a 3/8 ratchet. Watch your fingers as the idler arm has alot of tension. Before removing the belt note the routing - may want to draw a simple sketch for reference. Belt is removed:http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6924.jpg

Now is the fun part - removing the crank bolt. Easiest way would have been to remove the rad assembly as you can then fit an impact gun and voila! However taking the rad out etc is unnessary and more time consuming than needed. Grab a 19mm deep impact socket with 1/4 ratchet and good length pipe to use as a breaker bar. Now you need to jam the primary driveshaft from spinning. Here is where a hoist and helper are very beneficial. Simple insert the crow bar in-between the front u-joint:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6928.jpg

Now you spin the 19mm socket counter clock-wise while your assistant keeps the drive-shaft from spinning. Should not take too much effort.
You can shoot some WD40 where the 19mm crank bolt was removed to help with removal of the OEM pulley. We found that the OEM pulley just needs some simple wiggling to pry loose - gotta love new cars :)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6929.jpg

Now you lubricate the metal sleeve of the AMS pulley with oil/WD or equivalent. This ensures that the sleeve does not bind the crank seal. This is a precaution as the seals are fresh and still soft but on higher mileage cars they become hard and more brittle. Ona higher mileage car we would be replacing the seal regardless. Add some anti-seaze to the inner portion of the pulley and carefully insert making sure the key-ruff does not fall out or move.
Tighten the bolt with a torque wrench to OEM specs (I forget the exact spec and will insert this when I return to the shop).

AMS Pulley installed - not even the dealer will know it's there :)
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6934.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6935.jpg

Final steps involve re-tracing your steps for the under-trays.

All in all this should take a competent shop no more than 2-3 hours to do depending on skill level etc.

With simple equations for power increases the formula is 2.7 hp per 1 lb saved. Expect 10+ hp easily. Our past results with pulleys show a higher output level as cars are more heavily modified. The engine will feel lighter and upshifts and downshifts will be quicker!

Our AMS pulley will be available through exclusive distributors such as Speed for Sale. Pre-order details and delivery details along with dyno to follow shortly.

For those interested we had a feature on an install on one of our kits for the 350Z:

http://amszstore.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=33&pos=1

This is just a sample of things to come from our camp in the coming months for the R35.

Enjoy!

Vuk@AMS
www.amszstore.com
Servicing Nissan's Flagships Since 1992!

[Vuk@AMS]

Thanks Jeremy!

We'll have alot more DIY write-ups as we release parts and as we install various other mods on the GTR! Expect these in the warmer months as we're in a deep freeze up North at the moment :eek:


Regards,

Vuk@AMS
www.amszstore.com

[nickbegonja55]

excellent write up but damn is that GTR dirty..

[Vuk@AMS]

She was clean when she left her home and all that dust/salt/snow was accumulated within 10-15 Km's :eek: Welcome to Canada's Winter!

Luckily it is easily washed off.

Regards,

Vuk@AMS
www.amszstore.com

excellent write up but damn is that GTR dirty..

[totsubo]

The online GT-R service manual says 33 foot pounds as the torque setting for the 19mm bolt that secures the crank pulley. Do you guys think that is right?

[Vuk@AMS]

Torque should be 90-110 ft lbs.

The manual for the 350Z also states a low torque value with a degree reference of + 6 if memory serves me correct - which works out to the above value.

At 33 lbs I am sure it would wobble loose in short order.

Regards,

Vuk@AMS
www.amszstore.com


The online GT-R service manual says 33 foot pounds as the torque setting for the 19mm bolt that secures the crank pulley. Do you guys think that is right?

[totsubo]

http://www.totsubo.com/GTR/CrankPulleyTorque.gif

We need to double check this. I just had your AMS pulley installed yesterday morning. The bolt is tightened to only 33 ft lbs.

[Vuk@AMS]

Spoke with Jeremy on this one and we both agree that the stock recommendation seems abnormally low? It is however what they recommend so it was used.

As mentioned they recommend a similar spec for the 350's and most pulley manufacturers/installers have been tightening to 100 ft lbs with no issues. All other crank pulleys we've installed are minimum 100 and up.

We will be placing a digital torque wrench on the next GTR to pull in just to double check the spec and cross reference with the manual.

I would double check for looseness just to be safe. If you feel safer with a slightly higher torque spec then I would pop-in and see Jeremy for a quick tightening.

Regards,

Vuk@AMS
www.amszstore.com

[totsubo]

During the installation I went under the car to feel how loose the bolt was.

We used two different torque wrenches.

When I got home, I double checked it again with another torque wrench. And it went to 35 ft lbs (by accident). However, it still feels like it could use more.

I will be under the car again on Saturday morning to prep it for its dyno run. I will check again then.

I also sent an email to my Nissan dealer contact and to the website, nissan-techinfo.com. I got a reply back from the website, which said to contact a dealer.

[JeremyBlackwell]

Tere, we will check the factory spec using a digital torque wrench's peak hold feature ASAP and let you (and everyone here) know what we find. We are working on another GT-R tomorrow, so hopefully Jared can test it then. Thanks.

[totsubo]

Nice.

BTW, my contact at Gwinnett Place Nissan wrote back:
"The torque specification for the crankshaft pulley bolt is accurate.
<<33 ft lbs.>>. "

[totsubo]

Tere, we will check the factory spec using a digital torque wrench's peak hold feature ASAP and let you (and everyone here) know what we find. We are working on another GT-R tomorrow, so hopefully Jared can test it then. Thanks.

Just checking to see if there is an update on this. :D

[JeremyBlackwell]

Just checking to see if there is an update on this. :D

Nope, and it won't be today as we will only be doing work on the rear of the car and are on a tight time frame so Jared won't have time to check the crank bolt torque :( Next time...

[DarinF]

I must be blind, did I miss the price for this?

[mindlessoath]

The price for the first one is free as long as you provide a dyno chart of before and after pulls iirc.

price has not been said until everything is finalized, from what i can see on the subject. i dunno tho.

[JeremyBlackwell]

Ian (mindlessoath) is correct. Pricing will be released in the next week or so. Tere's GTR is the test car, and we're waiting on the dyno to be repaired by hopefully this weekend to do the after testing. Results coming soon!

[JeremyBlackwell]

Attached are the before and after dyno results with the AMS crank pulley. It smoothed out the curve a bit, and while the PEAK gains were very small, at a couple RPM points it gained 5 to 20 wheel horsepower. So, not a bad bang-for-the-buck modification! We are currently offering a sale on this item, so check out our webstore www.speedforsale.com/nissangtrparts

http://www.speedforsale.com/nissangtrparts/images/SFS_0003.jpg